HOT: Shoya Japanese Restaurant (Part 2), 25 Market Ln, Melbourne

After my previous post on dinner at the high-end Japanese restaurant Shoya, many people recommended that I try their more affordable but equally delicious lunch menu. So, to take advantage of a quiet day at the office, I joined my friends J and A for the $28 Shoya lunch set.

Shoya Japanese 25 Market Lane Melbourne

You get a LOT of food for your money. Our long lunch began with a small dish of pickled vegetables and what I think was slices of eel. Then we dipped our spoons into a ceramic ramekin of the most sexy silken baked savoury egg custard I’ve ever had.

Shoya Japanese 25 Market Lane Melbourne

Next up was a cube of chilled bean curd bathed in a soy broth and piled with ginger and spring onions plus a precisely sliced set of sashimi resting on a frozen orange hemisphere (I noticed that the grain on the fish was exactly symmetrical and cut in such a way to reveal in pretty half-moon shapes).

Shoya Japanese 25 Market Lane Melbourne

Shoya Japanese 25 Market Lane Melbourne

For ‘mains’ we received a large plate of featherlight prawn and vegetable tempura; a small serving of grilled fish and a mini bowl of slithery udon floating with seaweed. Actually, I should clarify – in fact I ate three bowls of udon as J and A were full at this point. Never one to let good food go to waste and having been to the gym that morning, I went to work on the noodles while they watched in amazement and suggested I try competitive eating as an alternative career.

Shoya Japanese 25 Market Lane Melbourne

Finally for dessert, a generous scoop of refreshing green tea icecream presented in a pretty leaf-shaped dish.

Having now gone for lunch and barbecue dinner at Shoya, I would definitely recommend lunch as the more wallet-friendly yet still delicious option – plus with that amount of food you’re probably not going to need dinner that night, even if you haven’t eaten three bowls of udon.

Shoya Japanese Restaurant, +61

Shoya Nouvelle Wafu Cuisine on Urbanspoon

HOT: Cibi, 45 Keele St, Collingwood

Cibi 45 Keele St Collingwood

I have two friends who are a couple. J is Asian and would like nothing better than a bowl of rice or noodles for breakfast. B is Anglo and in the morning the most substantial thing he can deal with  is eggs and toast.

I think I’ve just found the perfect place for them to have their breakfast dates. At Japanese-styled cafe Cibi, those who sit in B’s camp can order a Western style breakfast of the eggs and toast variety. On Saturday mornings those who lean towards more of J’s style can be served a traditional Japanese breakfast. For $14.50 you receive a substantial feed of rice, a piece of grilled salmon (they also have a vegetarian option), slices of egg omelette, pickled vegetables, Japanese potato salad and a large bowl of miso soup complete with hand hewn wooden soup ladle. Paired with a pot of Japanese green tea, it’s a healthy and hearty start to the day.

Cibi 45 Keele St Collingwood

Cibi 45 Keele St Collingwood

The Western/Eastern pairings continue with the delicious baked goods made by the owner’s wife. On one side of the counter, beautiful frangipani tarts laden with juicy berries. On the other side, green tea (matcha) muffins hiding a smear of red bean paste inside ($3.50). These unusual muffins were so moist and moreish – I had one straight out of the oven and then took another one home.

Cibi 45 Keele St Collingwood

Cibi 45 Keele St Collingwood

The space’s simple and refined aesthetic  is also a combination of Japanese elegance and Western warehouse chic. There’s a general friendliness and ease about the place. A large blackboard rests on one wall where customers scrawl their notes to Cibi and each other, and across it the Cibi staff have said ‘Thank you for everyone for hanging out at Cibi‘. Awww.

Each of the mismatched mid-century chairs has been restored by the owner Zenta, a trained architect, and sourced from a combination of junk shops and Zenta’s contacts in Denmark. I love the organic shape of the communal table which takes centre stage in the light-filled room and the way in which it echoes the waves of the traditional Japanese wood block print hanging on the white-washed wall.

Cibi 45 Keele St Collingwood

For the curious observer there are many nooks and crannies filled with interesting objects like vases and old books, and a whole section of Cibi is devoted to the display and sale of goods imported from Japan, from ceramics to fabrics to kitchenware. I particularly loved the pastel porcelain of the rice bowls by Masahiro Mori.

Finally, I also had an interesting chat with one of the waiters, Leo Greenfield. When he’s not working at Cibi, Leo is a recent VCA visual arts graduate who majored in sculpture and has a side project publishing his sketches of Australian street fashion at The Bride Stripped Bare by Her Bachelors, Even. Go check it out!

Cibi on Urbanspoon

HOT: Shoya Japanese Restaurant, 25 Market Ln, Melbourne

Shoya

Market Lane in the city is where you go to complete the Melbourne Asian foodie’s trinity – Flower Drum, Hutong Dumpling and Shoya.

Shoya is a multi-storey venture into Japanese food. The basement and ground floor houses traditional Japanese BBQ, first floor is traditional Japanese seating providing a la carte and degustation dining and the second floor is the sushi counter. There are also karaoke rooms and an executive lounge on the upper floors.

Shoya

Although I would have loved to try a degustation option, given the high prices ($100 and above) and that one of our party was a student, we opted for the cheaper BBQ option with meat and seafood at $59.  The “Gouka Tokusen” Special set still provided an abundance of food. We started off with Wagyu sashimi (thinly sliced fresh raw Wagyu beef) and a small bowl of salad. Then platter after platter was brought out to be cooked over the smokeless Japanese grills, from rib of Wagyu beef, Wagyu beef sirloin, thin rounds of ox tongue, juicy pieces of pork belly, marinated chicken, vegetables, huge prawns, scallops, squid florets, rather chewy abalone and kingfish. All this plus steamed rice, a bowl of warming miso soup and a choice of red bean, black sesame or green tea ice cream for dessert.

Oh, and I also opted for a serving of sea urchin cheesecake ($12) just because I couldn’t resist the adventure. On tasting the fluffy cheesecake I couldn’t detect any sea urchin at all, but the waitress informed me with delight, as if revealing the answer to a puzzle, that it actually consisted of 30% sea urchin. It seems a bit bizarre to use such an expensive ingredient in a dish where you can’t actually taste it, but now I know (and you know) what sea urchin cheesecake tastes like.

We had a lovely night at Shoya as all of the food was fresh and carefully prepared and I thought that quantity and quality of the food was good value for the price. However, I won’t go for the Japanese BBQ next time – I mean, how innovative can you be with barbecue? I’d rather save my money for a proper degustation, or else try the $28 Shoya set lunch menu which my friend J and Eat My Radish tells me is delicious.

Shoya Japanese Restaurant, +61

Shoya Nouvelle Wafu Cuisine on Urbanspoon

HOT: Izakaya Den, Basement 114 Russell St, Melbourne

Izakaya Den 114 Russell St Melbourne

The tapas trend in Australia seems to have now progressed to other forms of ‘little food’ – and in Melbourne, it has led to the growth of  izakayas, or Japanese pubs.

Izakaya Den (from Simon Denton of Verge fame) is the latest restaurant in the izakaya-spurt. After you descend down the stairs from the barely-there doorway,  it’s very Japanese: in the layout of the eating bench along the length of the narrow underground concrete chamber; the projection of the specials menu along one wall; the ninja-stealth staff uniforms and the paper scrolls listing the food and drink (including an extensive selection of sake, shochu and plum wine).

However, the food is not the sort you’d normally find Japanese salarymen scoffing down with beer before their late-night commute to the suburbs. Izakaya Den serves Japanese melded with Western tastes and so the menu encompasses traditional, but more often than not, fusion dishes, all to be shared.

P1030819v1

Izakaya Den 114 Russell St Melbourne

You could say that our experience veered from Japan to Italy to Switzerland and back again. We ordered the tuna tataki of thinly sliced melt-in-your-mouth cubes of tuna dotted with garlic soy, bresaola sheltering a daikon strip salad and my favourite, an unusual take on umagidon with eel and rice steamed in fragrant bamboo leaves. For dessert, C and I shared black sesame icecream topped with pink grapefruit, a white chocolate and green tea fondue with little green tea and macadamia mochi balls for dipping, and a cute little wagashi decorated with the tiniest of pink bows.

Izakaya Den 114 Russell St Melbourne

Izakaya Den 114 Russell St Melbourne

With a beer and a cocktail, the meal came to about $55 a head for three people. So the little food is not cheap – but it is beautifully presented, surprising and unique. Best of all, the cool space will transport you back to Tokyo.

If you want to read more about the izakaya invasion, check out articles in The Age’s Epicure, Melbourne Gastronome and Broadsheet.

Izakaya Den, +

Izakaya Den on Urbanspoon

HOT: Tempura Hajime, Park St, South Melbourne

Tempura Hajime Park St South Melbourne

Behind a non-descript door in Park Street, a little slice of Tokyo has dropped into South Melbourne.

Tempura Hajime Park St South Melbourne

Tempura Hajime is a tiny restaurant which only serves, you guessed it, tempura. Now I’m not such a great fan of tempura (how much fried stuff can you eat in one sitting?) but the restaurant had come with rave reviews from M and B, my generally non-tempura eating friends, plus a host of other food reviewers and bloggers. Given that the restaurant only seats 14 people around the wooden counter, bookings are hard to come by. So this dinner had been 2 months in anticipation!

Tempura Hajime Park St South Melbourne

There are no menu options – it’s $72 for the tempura set menu. I’d forgotten that my friend M didn’t eat fish or seafood but the staff were generous with providing her with alternatives. Although frankly I thought she was a bit cheated not being able to experience the delicious sashimi…

Tempura Hajime Park St South Melbourne

…..fried prawn (note the cute bird-shaped lemon juice squeezer in the background)…

Tempura Hajime Park St South Melbourne

…seared tuna with avocado and a dab of Japanese mayonnaise…

Tempura Hajime Park St South Melbourne

…scallop stuffed with rich sea urchin…

Tempura Hajime Park St South Melbourne

…whole whitebait….

Tempura Hajime Park St South Melbourne

…and mushroom stuffed with prawn. I like the Harry Houdini moustache of this morsel!

Tempura Hajime Park St South Melbourne

What she did receive was lots of vegetables, including this beautiful leaf. I couldn’t work out whether it was actual leaf, or a precisely cut piece of vegetable in the shape of the leaf. But so pretty!

Tempura Hajime Park St South Melbourne

We also shared a tofu stuffed with chicken (or pork)…

Tempura Hajime Park St South Melbourne

…mixed tempura with rice in a teriyaki sauce…

Tempura Hajime Park St South Melbourne

…and for dessert, a silken yoghurt pannacotta with sweet muscat juice.

Tempura Hajime Park St South Melbourne

Now for the main question – how was the tempura? Given that we’d eaten a series of fried dishes, it was quite miraculous that we didn’t leave the restaurant feeling laden with batter and grease. Tempura Hajime presents tempura at its best, giving dishes an added layer of textural crunch without overpowering the food. In fact, sometimes it was barely discernable. I still remember the asparagus spear we had which tasted of…fresh asparagus.

Tempura Hajime is definitely worth trying once for precise, refined Japanese cooking. While M insisted that she enjoyed her meal, I’m not sure I would recommend it for anyone who doesn’t like seafood. Also, given that the menu doesn’t change too often and there’s no menu choices, it’s not the kind of place that I’d be attending regularly. It’s more the kind of place for a once-off visit. Just make sure you do go at least once, as there’s rumours that the owners are intending to move back to Japan in 2010.

For more high-end Japanese cuisine, try Nobu or Shoya.

  • Tempura Hajime, +

Tempura Hajime on Urbanspoon

Ask the Doctor: Where to buy Japanese ingredients

06 Japan JK 194

Help me Doctor!: Do you know where in Melbourne I can buy black sesame paste and matcha powder (green tea in powder form)? I have not noticed them in Asian grocery stores. – Jenny T

Your prescription: Perhaps you would have better luck with a Japanese specialist grocery store? Here are a list of Japanese grocery stores close or close-ish to the city:

  • O Mu Ro, +6
  • Tokyo Deli, +
  • Tsukiji, + (though the focus is more on seafood)
  • Fuji Mart, (nr Prahran Market) South Yarra +
  • Suzuran Japan Foods, +61 3  9804 7396 and +

Itadakimasu! – Jetsetting Joyce

HOT: Don Don, 321 Swanston St, Melbourne

Don Don Swanston St Melbourne

Have you heard of the ‘sports icon’ Takeru Kobayashi? This Japanese man is one of the great champions of competitive eating (he’s now ranked second according to the International Federation of Competitive Eating, after an unheralded six years at the top).  I watched him in action in the documentary Crazy Legs Conti: Zen and the Art of Competitive Eating and I found it astounding that this small-framed, 73kg man, could eat so much, so quickly.

Sometimes I think that Don Don is trying to train up the next contender to win back Kobayashi’s  crown. How quickly can you eat? This hole-in-the-wall Japanese restaurant is a fast food classic in the CBD – I challenge you to find anywhere else that is able to serve you teriyaki beef don, tofu curry don or a bento box in under one minute, before you’ve even had a chance to put your change back in your wallet. The kitchen and cash register are staffed by an assembly line of hyper international students (who have thankfully stopped shouting ‘irashaimase!’ at every entering customer) and the service is friendly and frantic.

In aid of the quick-in, quick-out philosophy of Don Don, the tiny stools and eating benchtops do not encourage diners to linger. In a loose time trial, I’ve managed to order and eat in five minutes, which means it’s perfect for a pre-cinema meal or lunch on the go (or if you’re training for competitive eating).

As you’d expect, the food isn’t the most refined Japanese food around, but I still think the rosette of salmon sashimi in the sashi don is beautifully presented, combined with the contrasting colours of tofu, fried beancurd, crisp salad greens, pink ginger and pickles. It’s filling and great value for $8.50.

I’m not the only blogger who loves the sashi don – check out tummyrumbles’ review. For other cheap, fast Asian eats in the CBD, try Hutong Dumpling Bar, Jolly J’s Curry Shack and Coco Rice.

  • Don Don, +

Don Don Australia on Urbanspoon

HOT: Wabi Sabi Salon, 94 Smith St, Collingwood

wabi sabi salon smith street collingwood

What happens when you gather two bloggers together on a blind friend date? You get three cameras, two iphones and lots of chat about writing, coding and stats.

But this post isn’t about the first meeting of Miss Kish and Jetsetting Joyce – it’s about the fantastical world of Wabi Sabi Salon. ‘Wabi Sabi‘ is the name of a Japanese  aesthetic centered on the acceptance of transience and beauty that is imperfect, impermanent and incomplete. That’s an apt description for the random and quirky design aesthetic for this small Japanese restaurant. Everywhere we turned we wanted to take pictures, from the dangling red lanterns, secluded private dining area to the kitsch and colourful toilets (complete with kabuki opera music and a lifelike poster of tattooed torsos to enhance the toilet-going mood).

Wabi Sabi Salon 94 Smith St Collingwood

The food coming from the tiny back kitchen was authentic, flavoursome and beautifully presented on mismatched Japanese crockery. To start we shared slices of eggpland and zucchini bathed in an unusual sticky sauce (ankake sauce) presented in the mid-section of a scoop-out eggplant ($11). For mains Miss Kish had the Tofu Dango (it sounds like a dance step), a  colourful boat of fried tofu balls, sweet potato, lotus root and veges served in a thick seaweed stock ($23). I devoured a whole tempura flounder ($26) – literally, complete with crunchy fried bones. The flounder was topped with sweet potato, fried lotus root and two dipping sauces – lime mayonnaise and ginger soy – and was one of the most satisfying fish dishes I’ve eaten in a while, on par with the whole fish served at Longrain and Cookie.

Wabi Sabi Salon 94 Smith St Collingwood

wabi sabi salon smith street collingwood

We couldn’t resist dessert so decided to share a home-made green tea cheesecake with black sesame icecream ($12). The fluffy cheesecake was the love child of a sturdy New York baked cheesecake and a girly souffle-like Japanese cheese cake. Black sesame icecream is in my Top 3 ice cream flavours and Wabi Sabi Salon‘s version didn’t disappoint – the icy cool chased down by the roasted sesame aftertaste was particularly delightful.

Wabi Sabi Salon 94 Smith St Collingwood

Finally, Wabi Sabi Salon is participating in Street Smart’s fundraising campaign, which runs from 9 November – 24 December 2009. Street Smart is a homeless charity and since 2003 they have partnered with restaurants to ask diners to make a small donation to Street Smart. Basically, every table is asked to add $2 or more to their bill and 100% of the donations are distributed directly to charity recipients. Find the full list of restaurants participating in 2009 here.

Thanks to Miss Kish for her wonderful photos! If you’d like to read Miss Kish‘s take on Wabi Sabi Salon and see more of her fab photos, click here.

Update 11 January 2010: A new Japanese Day Spa has now opened above Wabi Sabi Salon. Chanoyu is inspired by a traditional Japanese Tea Ceremony Room and offers massages, facials and beauty treatments using Pola’s Sakura Veil and Aglaira products. It’s open Monday – Saturday 10a-8pm by appointment only (Anne Nguyen ).

Wabi Sabi Salon on Urbanspoon

HOT: Peko Peko, 199 Smith St, Fitzroy

Peko Peko Smith Street Collingwood

The strip between Johnston and Gertrude Streets on Smith Street is takeaway heaven. Slowly RM and I are taste-testing our way down the street as our workloads increase and cooking-energy levels decrease.

Peko Peko is billed as a Japanese cafe and it seems to be a popular local haunt. The small, relaxed place is decorated with a few Japanese touches (kimono fabrics, little rock garden in the corner) and it’s staffed by Japanese kitchenhands and quirky art-student waitresses.

Peko Peko Smith Street Collingwood

The menu is split into small, medium and large dishes, which range from traditional Japanese to fusion flavours. We started off with some agedashi tofu ($10) and soy and ginger marinated soft-shelled crab served with chilli mayonnaise ($10).  The texture of the tofu was not the perfect silkiness that you get at Longrain, but still very good dunked in the flavoursome soy-based broth spiked with ginger. The soft-shelled crab was a hit, a contrast in textures  with a crunchy outer coating revealing succulent crab meat.  With rice we tried the pirikara spicy prawns on a bed of spinach which was relatively unremarkable ($18), chicken gyoza somewhat lacking in flavour and juiciness ($8) and an okonomiyaki ($10) unlike anything I ate in Japan – a bubble-and-squeak-like mash of leftover vegetables cut into triangles, with not a bonito flake in sight.

Peko Peko Smith Street Collingwood

As you can see, our meal consisted of some hits and misses, but it never veered towards terrible. Peko Peko is not the best Japanese food I’ve had, nor is it the worst. Would I come back again? Yes – and so it gets a HOT.

More takeway in the neighbourhood? Try Mamanee Thai, Crust Pizza or Old Kingdom for Chinese.

  • Peko Peko, +

Peko Peko on Urbanspoon

HOT: Nobu Melbourne, Crown Melbourne, 8 Whiteman St, Southbank

Nobu Melbourne, Crown Melbourne, 8 Whiteman Street, Southbank

I admit that I don’t generally choose to dine at Crown unless I have visitors, the Yarra being the closest thing Melbourne gets to a glamourous harbour view. In my mind, all that shiny sleekness lacks personality – the strip just feels like a series of faceless, corporate expense account-style restaurants.

Which just goes to show that sometimes I can be really narrow-minded about my eating. Lunch at the Melbourne branch of the Japanese celeb restaurant Nobu (it’s part owned by Robert de Niro) turned out to be an experience where the worldwide hype was deserved.

The menu was quite extensive so for ease we all decided to try the Bento Box ($42) as it included Nobu’s signature dish, the black cod with miso. What arrived were two large containers holding a myriad of flavours, textures and colours. To wit: a salad topped with a few slices of fresh salmon sashimi and dressed with a Matsuhisa dressing (which tasted like the soup packet mixture you get in instant ramen); a generous pile of baby tiger prawns covered in a light coating of tempura batter and with a tart ponzu sauce; a small slice of the famed black cod with miso – very fresh fish cooked simply; oshitashi (spinach with roasted sesame seeds); a spicy vegetable stir-fry with rice; a colourful assortment of sushi; miso soup; and freshly ground wasabi. The spread was quite incredible and for a while, conversation came to a standstill as everyone devoured their different dishes, the eating punctuated only by the occasional ‘whoa!’ as the sharp wasabi hit the sinuses.

In addition, the service was warm and friendly and Melbourne pulled out a bright sunshiny day for our relaxing riverside meal. So I take it back – Crown can pull off good food in a high-class setting and Nobu is definitely worth a revisit.

For more Japanese fine dining, try Tempura Hajime and Shoya.

Nobu on Urbanspoon