Munching on tacos in a sunny off-laneway courtyard? How very Melbourne Summer of 2013.

La Condesa is a taquería that serves tasty tacos for a bargain 3 for $10 at lunchtimes (and $4 each the rest of the time). The seating is simple – low wooden tables and benches on Astroturf and surrounded by graffiti and a small garden bed.

The taco menu is equally uncomplicated. There are five options – spicy chorizo, Arrachera (marinated steak), fried fish, mushrooms and zucchini. All served with coriander and onion on request.

After that you’re free to construct your own taco creation with a selection of housemade salsas that range from mild to hot. I recommend drizzling your tacos with a mild avocado salsa, piling on some tomato and onion mixture and then lacing it with some super hot sauce. Squeeze on some fresh lime juice, maybe even picked from the lime tree growing in the mini garden, and you’re set.

Out of the five options our vote goes for the fish – it’s fresh and light and doesn’t create a sodden mess when nestled inside the fresh tortilla. In contrast the steak was quite chewy and the chorizo seeps out sauce so you have to eat it super quick to prevent the tortilla from becoming soggy.

For sides try the corn in a cup ($5) – fresh corn kernels with a queso and spicy mixture on top. Very moreish.

The surprising highlight was actually the dessert flan ($5). The wobbling disk of baked custard was a perfectly even silken texture, with a light caramel worth mopping up.

While the liquor licence permit is coming through you’ll find rotating flavours of aqua frescas to drink. They are very sweet nectars so you could even water it down to make it go further ($4).

Finally I found the service at La Condesa super-friendly. While it was a lo-fi/food truck feel to it you actually do get table service once you order at the counter – and it’s all done with a cheerful smile and a charming Latino accent.

La Condesa Taqueria and Cantina,
11.30am till Late / Wednesday to Sunday

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