When I lived in Montreal I discovered that Montrealers are as passionate about bagels as New Yorkers. Everyone declared allegiance to one of two bagel shops: Fairmount Bagel Bakery and St Viateur Bagels. Residents argued passionately about the superiority of their preferred bagel shop and could never be swayed that the other shop’s bagels were more flavoursome/more dense/less dense/chewier/less chewy.

Glick's 362 Glenhuntly Rd Elsternwick

In Melbourne there’s no such controversy – the best bagels come from Glick’s. This kosher bakery makes bagels with just the right amount of chew (which is what distinguishes bagels from other breads) in an array of savoury and sweet flavours. My favourites are cinnamon and raisin and blueberry, but as it was lunchtime on my visit I decided to opt for the ‘Everything’ bagel with smoked salmon, cream cheese and salad. In the interests of taste-testing I also tried a small challah, a traditional Jewish braid of slightly sweetened brioche-like bread. Delicious.