HOT: Qua’n 888, Shop 24, Little Saigon Shopping Centre, Ryan and Leeds Streets, Footscray

Quan 888

Thanks to a tip-off from the on-the-pulse Footscray Food Blog I dropped into on my last grocery shop to Footscray’s Little Saigon market.

What we’re used to in Australia is generally southern Vietnamese cuisine with a smattering of northern Vietnamese dishes – but food from the middle region doesn’t tend to get much of a look in.

At they specialise in food from the cities of Da Nang, Hoi An and Hue. You can find the small restaurant in Little Saigon market, at the opposite end of the crowded chaos of the fresh food stalls.

The decor is serviceable and filled with neon, food posters and random Vietnamese/Chinese bric-a-brac. The service is very friendly and the young owners speak English, which helps if you need guidance through the menu.

quan 888

They have two noodle best-sellers – Bun Cha Ca Da Nang (Da Nang style vermicelli fish cake soup) and My Quang (Quang Nam style noodle with sauteed pork, prawn and quail egg) (both $10). I tried the former, which came out with the pungent purple shrimp paste and additional chilli and garlic thoughtfully presented to one side along with the crunchy bean shoots and mint leaves.

I happen to love the strong, stinky aroma of shrimp paste and if you choose not to tip in the whole dish of condiments the soup becomes less rounded in flavour and frankly less interesting. The fishcakes were squishy and chewy, like fried tofu puffs, and very distinct from the bland pouffes you often get from commercial packets.

quan 888

I also tried the banh selection, which offers three different forms of steamed glutinous rice cake with various fillings ($10). I particularly loved the mouth feel of the slippery, translucent banh loc, the shorter of the two rice cakes wrapped in banana leaves and filled with prawn and pork. The banh nam, the longer of the wrapped parcels, was too mushy for my liking and contained prawn, pork and mushrooms. The banh beo in the little bowls were freshly steamed to order and sort of an in-between in texture topped with shrimp, fried shallots and shards of peanut. You dip the rice cakes as you wish in a nuoc cham.

To drink I tried the homemade corn milk, a refreshing concoction of freshly squeezed corn juice, condensed milk, cow’s milk and sugar ($4). Next time I’m going to try their homemade soy milk ($4).

When I paid the friendly owner told me that I must return on a weekend to try the Cao Lau Hoi An, Hoi An style noodles with roast pork. There’s only limited availability because the noodles are hard to source, while the pork is apparently similar to char siu.

Like Co Thu Quan next door, I love that is introducing Melburnians to the distinctive regional flavours of Vietnam. You won’t find their style of food everywhere and if you’re keen to explore more than pho and rice paper rolls then try it out.

, Shop 24, Little Saigon Shopping Centre, Ryan and Leeds Streets, Footscray

10am-6:30pm daily

HOT: Xuan Banh Cuon, 232 Hampshire Rd, Sunshine

xuan banh cuon

Eating out in multicultural Sunshine can be a little overwhelming if you don’t have a recommendation. Luckily for me, the path to Xuan Banh Cuon has been trodden by some of my favourite food bloggers – Footscray Food Blog, Consider the Sauce and Melbourne Gastronome.

Add my voice to their chorus because the banh cuon at Xuan Banh Cuon is out of this world. Banh cuon, thin Vietnamese rice paper crepes, are pretty rare to find in pho-filled Melbourne. And the few versions I’ve tried do not compare to the pliable, freshly made rolls being doled out at  Xuan Banh Cuon.

From the outside the family-run restaurant looks much like many Vietnamese restaurants in the area. The seating is functional, the cutlery is serviceable and a big screen TV looms from the wall.

 xuan banh cuon

Have a peek in the kitchen though. Expert hand quickly ladle a thin stream of watery flour batter which is spread with a flat paddle to create tissue-thin crepes. These are quickly flipped up and rolled with various fillings and presented to your table, still steaming. 

xuan banh cuon

The menu is short, with the first five options being varieties of banh cuon. The signature dish #1 contains slivers of wood ear (mushrooms), dried prawns and pork that’s minced in house ($10). It’s topped with crispy shallots and pork floss.

 That’s not all! The dish comes with some sliced pork loaf, a heap of bean sprouts and fresh mint plus nuoc cham (fish sauce with sugar, chilli, garlic, lime)

 We ordered our banh cuon with a ‘prawn hash brown’ which was a flat pancake of fried potato sticks with some coconutty school prawns on top ($14). Next time I will just stick to the original.

 xuan banh cuon

We also tried a bowl of the banh da cua, red noodles with crab paste which is a specialty of Hai Phong, a port city in Northern Vietnam. Our #6 soup came with wide red rice noodles hidden amongst a couple of fish cakes, beef-stuffed vine leaves, tofu and green veg in a strong soup stock. As with pho you can DIY your own version with the supplied herbs, bean sprouts, chilli and lemon.

When a restaurant is named after a single dish then you know it’s the best thing to try on the menu. I guarantee that you will love the banh cuon at Xuan Banh Cuon and it’s well worth a trip to Sunshine just to get the #1!

Xuan Banh Cuon, 232 Hampshire Rd, Sunshine 9364 8992

Daily 9am – 8pm

Xuan Banh Cuon on Urbanspoon

HOT: Bo De Trai, 94 Hopkins St, Footscray

bo de trai

I’m not vegetarian but I can appreciate a good vegetarian restaurant when I encounter one! And Bo De Trai, a cheap and cheerful vegetarian Vietnamese/Chinese restaurant in Footscray, is awesome. In fact, I think some of their dishes are better than their original meaty versions.

Bo De Trai is a restaurant which is linked to the Quang Minh Buddhist Temple in Braybrook and all the profits go back to fund the temple’s work (if that makes you more or less inclined to eat there).

Over time I’ve eaten a large portion of their menu, eat-in and takeaway. My advice is to stick to the rice paper rolls, the crispy spring rolls and the soup noodles, particularly the Vietnamese style dishes. I’ve heard the claypot and slow-cooked dishes are good but from my experience I’d avoid anything stir-fried – their technique is on the clammy, saucy side.

bo de trai

To start try the Bo Bia. Five huge rice paper rolls absolutely stuffed with mixed stir-fried vegies and a fairly standard dipping sauce. You could easily fill up on a plate of these and there’s your lunch or dinner for only $6.50.

bo de trai

My go-to dish is Bun Hue, a colourful spicy noodle soup filled with chunks of tofu, fried gluten and vegetables ($9). You can pile your bowl even higher with the accompanying array of bean sprouts and different mint leaves. The broth is the highlight, as it has a surprising amount of flavour given it’s vegetarian. Be warned the chilli factor is pretty high so you may not necessarily want to add the fresh chilli that’s provided.

bo de trai
The other dish which is an excellent interpretation of the original is the Bun Rieu ($9). Normally a homestyle tomato-based vermicelli soup with crab, the vegetarian version used egg. In texture it was completely different of course but in taste it was spot on. Very comforting on a cold day.

There’s only one choice of dessert – a ‘caramel cake’ for a measly $1.50! It’s actually a little plastic tub of creme caramel and quite delicious – smooth and silky with a deep caramel flavour.

bo de trai

The staff are volunteers and hence the service is almost non-existent though confusedly friendly when it happens. People sort of amble in the back rooms doing whatever until you poke your head in or you have to wave your arms about wildly if staff are, by chance, serving someone else. Not everyone speaks English so you may have to do a bit of sign language to be understood.

Just call it a genuine experience of what it would be like to dine out (vegetarian) in Vietnam.

Bo De Trai, 94 Hopkins St, Footscray 

Mon-Sun 10am-7pm

Bo de Trai on Urbanspoon

HOT: Rice Paper Scissors, 19 Liverpool St, Melbourne

rice paper scissors melbourne

Rice Paper Scissors is a small South East Asian hawker-style eatery tucked away in Liverpool Street. I call it ‘Longrain-lite’, due in part to the postage stamp sized venue and its menu of Vietnamese and Thai street food.

We visited Rice Paper Scissors early on a Saturday night, when it was rammed to the rafters and with a waiting list to boot (they don’t take bookings). Even the tiny pavement tables were prime real estate in the shivery winter’s evening (thank goodness for the outdoor heaters). Indoors there was a mixture of seating, all high stools either at the bar or at communal tables.

rice paper scissors melbourne

The menu was easy to navigate – sharing plates on one side, booze on the other. They have a ‘get plattered for 2’ where you can choose any of the 5 sharing dishes for $45, which is a great way to scope out the menu. If you have a large appetite like mine then sharing 5 dishes will be *just* enough to make you full. So you may need to add a sixth!

We ordered our five dishes with our perky waitress and the food came quickly. It’s all business getting tables turned over quickly with such high demand for tables.

rice paper scissors melbourne

We started off with Son-in-law eggs which were not the whole eggs I was expecting but fried eggs sunny-side up with the yolks mingling with the chilli caramel dressing and crunchy shallots. Great punchy flavours but a real mess to eat.

rice paper scissors melbourne

Next up, betel leaf with fresh crab and peanut salad with a chilli caramel dressing. A sweet and spicy combination and while not as refined as the signature dish at Longrain, it will put fire in your belly.

rice paper scissors melbourne

We quite enjoyed the duck salad laab ped with lettuce leaves cupping a mixture of minced duck, roasted rice, herbs and a fiery dressing which wasn’t too fiery actually.

rice paper scissors melbourne

Better still were the sticky lamb ribs marinated in Mekong whiskey, the only sticking point (haha) was that there wasn’t too much meat on the bones and it was a little on the dry side. Loved the deep molassy flavours though.

rice paper scissors melbourne

The least successful dish was the Cambodian steamed fish amok, a sort of fish paste marinated in coconut cream and spices which again was not spicy enough for my palate.

It’s easy to see why Rice Paper Scissors is popular. It’s fun and convivial, with finger-lickin’ high flavour impact food that goes perfectly with a cocktail or three. Rice Paper Scissors continues the tradition of ‘cheap and cheerful’ food that characterises Chinatown, while still providing a funky dining experience.

Plus for a nightcap you can even skip next door to laneway bar veteran Double Happiness.

Rice Paper Scissors, 19 Liverpool St, Melbourne 0 03 9663 9890

Monday to Friday 12 until 3pm, 6pm till late

Saturday 5pm till late

Sunday closed

Rice Paper Scissors on Urbanspoon

HOT: HM Quan, 5/68-82 Hopkins Street, Footscray

hm quan

There are loads of Vietnamese eateries on Hopkins Street Footscray yet still manages to stands out. Mainly because of its crazy, Hawaiian-tiki inspired decor and toddler-sized furniture (for kids and adults alike).

hm quan

Step inside and you’ll be bombarded by a party of fake grass, indoor straw huts, tiny knick-knacks placed on every bit of available space from ground to eye level plus a flowing water feature in the corner. I’m not sure what ‘theme’ they were going for in the interior design other than ‘comical kitsch’.

hm quan

The menu has some Vietnamese standards and then some standouts. I highly recommend their banh trang HM Quan ($9.99) – a large pile of crispy rice paper rolls hidden under a mound of radish, apple, dried fish, chilli and roasted shallots. All finished off with a squirt of mayonnaise. Hunt around and you’ll find some quail eggs in the mountain of rolls too.

hm quan

Their bun was pretty ho-hum, with lots of rice vermicelli noodles and only a smattering of grilled pork or tofu fish and some rather sloppy presentation ($8.99). I wasn’t particularly excited by the pickles or the sauce and overall I think the smoky version at Sapa Hills is better.

hm quan

Their Guo Cuon (spring rolls) were freshly made and stuffed with prawns, rice vermicelli and veges ($8.99). They came with a pungent fermented shrimp sauce rather than the usual hoisin based dipping sauce.

hm quan

is well known for their very cheap rice/congee combos where you pay $2.99 for a bowl of rice or congee then add as many side dishes as you like for $2.99 each. We tried the sauteed mushrooms, slippery little shiitakes sliced and lightly pan-fried, as well as small chunks of caramelised pork which were sticky and crunchy at the same time. You can customise your seasoning with the little pots of table-side condiments – soy, fish sauce, salt shrimp and pepper. It was a fun way and filling way to try lots of different dishes – and if you don’t like your salted egg then it would have only cost you $3!

hm quan

Those who are tall or not flexible will probably find the seating at   too uncomfortable after a while, but it’s not really the sort of place to linger so you’ll be in and out quickly. It’s cheerful and cheap, even by Footscray standards (our party of 4 adults and 2 kids paid just under $50 for dinner) and the novelty factor means it’s worth a try.

5/68-82 Hopkins Street, Footscray

Monday to Friday 5-10pm; weekends 9am-9pm

HM Quan on Urbanspoon

HOT: Cô Thư Quán, Shop 22, 63 Nicholson Street, Footscray

co thu quan

If you like pho and rice paper rolls then you’re spoilt for choice in Footscray. But visit   in Little Saigon market and you will experience the kind of Vietnamese food that I suspect you won’t find anywhere else in Melbourne.

 is tucked away in a quiet nook inside crazy shouty Little Saigon market. There are only a handful of tables but guests turn over quickly as the restaurant is all about cheap and tasty street food.

The menu is relatively small and honestly I’d be happy to eat all of it. If you’re unsure of what you’re getting then there are helpful pictures for every dish. On my visits I’ve been ordering after surreptitiously checking out what my neighbours were eating.

co thu quan

What do I like to eat there? First off, the Banh Trang Cuon. These are mini rice paper wrappers stuffed with an intense mixture of fried shallots, beef jerky, sour mango and dried shrimp, ever-so-lightly fried to wafer crispness. It comes drizzled with kewpie mayonnaise which I think is a bit odd but the sweetness does help offset the strong flavours of the rolls.

Rickshaw Run Footscray

Another popular starter is the Bap Xao – sauteed sweet corn with dried shrimp, fresh spring onions and butter ($5). A simple yet effective dish enhanced with an optional squirt of sriracha.


Cô Thư Quán, Shop 22, 63 Nicholson Street, Footscray (5)

My favourite large dish so far has been the Com Am Phu, a feast for one featuring marinated freshwater baby crabs and a variety of exotic and unidentifiable side dishes ($10). Never before have I seen these crabs available and if you like soft-shelled crab then these crunchy little morsels will be right up your alley!

co thu quan

Their signature dish is bun dau mam tom. It’s a straw platter of three mounds of vermicelli, some slices of fatty steamed pork belly, fried tofu, a fried pork patty and herbs, all dipped into some intense fermented shrimp sauce. There’s a lot to eat for $10 and even an old Cantonese lady passing by was impressed by all the food.

co thu quan

Diners with less adventurous palates may like the Xoi Xa Xiu – Sticky rice featuring BBQ pork and Chinese sausage. It was not the best example of the dish as it was a little dry, but it will only set you back $5.

I have to admit I’m a bit confused by the drinks menu – there are fruits and ingredients that I’ve never heard of in there. Every time I’ve asked for a recommendation and depending on who you get they may or may not understand English.

Anyway, when faced with a confused waitress I revert to ordering Nuoc Dau Rang, a creamy drink made from five different roasted beans ($4). It’s like drinking nut milk but without the extra sweeteners and you can have it hot or cold.

The service at  is always friendly, if somewhat confused at times due to the language barrier. I like the decor too – while the ubiquitous karaoke TV is still enshrined in the restaurant the mass of dangling conical hats create a striking ceiling feature.

 is probably my favourite place to eat in Footscray and that’s a tough call. The food is unique, well-made and full of fresh and punchy flavours. Exploring the menu has been an exciting discovery of taste sensations and I drop in semi-regularly when I go grocery shopping at Little Saigon.

, Shop 22, 63 Nicholson Street, Footscray

Open 7 days, 10:30 am – 8 pm

Click to add a blog post for Cô Thư Quán on Zomato

HOT: Sunshine Pho Fever, Melbourne Food and Wine Festival 2014, Sunshine

Sunshine Pho Fever

Pho is pho is pho – right?

WRONG. This Vietnamese rice noodle soup is a dish which many people hold dear to their hearts. Everyone has their favourite haunts and a discussion about where in Melbourne to find the best pho in Melbourne leads to much passionate and parochial debate.

My Vietnamese friends always maintain that their mum’s pho is the best and can’t be replicated – but if they deign to go out for pho then the most authentic is to be found in Sunshine.

So in order to sample the culinary delights of Sunshine’s pho I participated in Sunshine Pho Fever, one of the events held at the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival.

The progressive dinner started with a Vietnamese ice coffee or bubble tea from Sao Café (308 Hampshire Road). I chose watermelon and scoffed at RM choosing taro – but in fact the maligned yam tasted much better than the fake sweetness of the watermelon flavouring.

From there the group split to try different restaurants. We were directed a few doors up to Phở Hien Saigon (3/284 Hampshire Road). The owner explained that his broth was an adaptation of a recipe of his family and had been cooked for 12+ hours and left overnight to infuse before being served the next day. Every day new stock is made – the stock is not reheated over and over again. We were given a small bowl of either beef or chicken pho to sample, along with a huge plate of aromatic herbs and bean sprouts.

Sunshine Pho Fever

While I haven’t tried every single pho in Melbourne my phở  journey so far draws me to declare Phở Hien Saigon is a contender for the best phở I’ve had in Melbourne. The broth was light but flavoursome, not murky and muddy in flavour or appearance, and I had to stop myself from drinking too much of the soup knowing that there would be more phở to come. I liked the bright, spacious restaurant too (with ubiquitous flat screen TVs in the corners) and the enthusiasm of the entrepreneurial young owner who has recently expanded his restaurant and wants to keep growing.

Sunshine Pho Fever

The next stop was Nhi Nuong/ Two Sisters (255 Hampshire Road). To welcome the Sunshine Pho Fever guests the owners had prepared a wildly intricate fruit display and had live singers – the two sisters themselves – entertain us.

Sunshine Pho Fever

They were so excited to welcome us into their restaurant, even festooning our central table with balloons, that it was all quite humbling. As for the phở, the broth was rather oily and was too strong in anise flavour for my taste. Still good, but not as good as Phở Hien Saigon.

Our final stop was Thuan An (253 Hampshire Road) where we were not served phở  (thank God – apparently last year people were given  a third bowl!) but instead a small taste of their signature coconut prawns and a freshly squeezed pennyworth, coconut and mung bean juice. I’ve never tasted pennyworth before and it was refreshing and sweet – but you have to make sure the restaurant squeezes the leaves fresh as many places will use bottled juice. The coconut prawn was crunchy and juicy and certainly a dish I’d return to try in full, though I hope they don’t normally serve it was strawberry sauce!

Sunshine Pho Fever

As we stumbled out back onto Hampshire Road I vowed I will never again say that too much pho is never enough (I quote I made when I ate it every day in my 3 weeks in Vietnam). Two small bowls of pho in one night is too much! Having said that, Sunshine Pho Fever was a bargain for $45 per person and was a great introduction to the great Vietnamese food that can be found in Sunshine. 

Sunshine Pho Fever, Melbourne Food and Wine Festival 2014, Sunshine

Pho Hien Saigon on Urbanspoon

Nhi Nuong - 2 Sister Restaurant on Urbanspoon

Thuan An Restaurant on Urbanspoon

HOT: Rickshaw Run, Melbourne Food and Wine Festival 2014, Footscray

Rickshaw Run Footscray

I’ll admit that much of this year’s Melbourne Food and Wine Festival passed me by this year as I was caught up with packing up and moving house.

I did manage to make it to a few events though and one of the highlights was the Rickshaw Run, an annual sold out event held in the heart of the inner west, Footscray, and organised by the inimitable Lauren Wambach of Footscray Food Blog.

Rickshaw Run Footscray

The Rickshaw Run was an Vietnamese feasting extravaganza that spanned several hours, numerous venues and some burly rugby players from the Footscray Rugby Union Club who volunteered to pull our increasingly-heavy rickshaws.

Rickshaw Run Footscray

Our first stop was D & K Live Seafood (3/28A Leeds St, Footscray) which specialises in…live seafood of course. Inside there are tanks galore and you’re served on the slippery floor by brusque men in galoshes. Kenny of westside food blog Consider The Sauce introduced the group to the concept of the Rickshaw Run then instructed us to dig into the freshly shucked oysters from Coffin Bay and Tasmania.

Rickshaw Run Footscray

We then tipped ourselves into our rickshaws and were trundled around the corner to the Little Saigon market. To help orientate the group inside the bustling, somewhat overwhelming market, we settled down on some tiny stools at Northern Vietnamese cuisine specialist  (Shop 22, Little Saigon market
63 Nicholson Street).

Rickshaw Run Footscray

We were offered a sample of Bắp Xào, a simple yet delicious dish of sauteed juicy sweet corn with dried shrimp, spring onions, capped off with a squirt of sriracha. I’m quite addicted to this dish and have even enjoyed its pungent shrimpiness for breakfast!

Everyone then dispersed to sample the fruit and veg on sale while I visited the roast BBQ shop on the corner (sorry can’t remember the name) for a huge slice of their delicious mar lai gao (steamed cake). RM was shocked that I was buying more food on a food tour but…for $2.30 it’s pretty hard to resist stuffing my face with piping hot cake.

Into the rickshaw we went and then were dropped off at Sen, a newish Chinese Vietnamese restaurant (74-76 Nicholson Street). There we were given a lesson on rolling Gỏi Cuốn – rice paper rolls. The trick is not to be greedy and put too much filling inside (it’s not a burrito!) and to roll everything up tight, tight, tight!

Rickshaw Run Footscray

Another short trip on the rickshaw dropped us off at Phong Dinh (152 Hopkins Street) where we tried hu tieu – a clear rice noodle soup. It may be sacrilegious to say but I think hu tieu is better than pho.

Rickshaw Run Footscray

For my taste the broth is clearer and lighter and the noodles are chewier and springier. It doesn’t come with all the pho accoutrements such as bean sprouts and herbs but I actually don’t tend to add those items in my bowl. 

Rickshaw Run Footscray

Tummies were starting to get rather full now so we had a brief respite from the eating as we watched a taiko drumming performance by Wadaiko Rinko Noriko Tadano. And then masseurs gave everyone shoulder massages as we watched the show! As if we were the ones doing all the rickshaw pulling.

Rickshaw Run Footscray

Wait, we were fed during the drumming performance! Fortunately just mini servings of sugarcane juice and banh khot – mini coconut pancakes with prawn.

Our final stop was Sapa Hills (112 Hopkins St) one of the most popular Vietnamese restos in Footscray. We frequent it often because (a) their food is delicious; (b) the atmosphere is calm; and (b) they are one of the few places in Footscray that take EFTPOS!

Rickshaw Run Footscray

At Sapa Hills we had one of their signature dishes Bún Chả Hà Nội. The chargrilled pork they serve is particularly smoky in flavour and is combined with rice vermicelli and fresh herbs. I’ve not done an extensive survey of other Bún Chả Hà Nội but I think Sapa Hills make some of the best.

Almost 3 hours later, we’ve had a brilliant time eating, drinking, chatting and sharing foodie tips with our fellow rickshaw passengers. The Rickshaw Run is a marvellous event that showcases just a small slice of the culinary wonders to be found in Footscray and I look forward to exploring more. Eat Drink Westside – yes please!

Rickshaw Run Footscray

Rickshaw Run, Melbourne Food and Wine Festival 2014, Footscray

Cô Thư Quán on Urbanspoon

Sen on Urbanspoon

Phong Dinh on Urbanspoon

Sapa Hills on Urbanspoon

HOT: Vietnam on a Plate, Discover Footscray Tours

Vietnam on a Plate, Discover Footscray Tours

Every six months or so Maribyrnong City Council run ‘Discover Footscray‘ tours which are free or subsidised tours to help locals and visitors discover the food, art and history in Footscray – possibly the last inner city suburb in Melbourne that has yet to be completely gentrified.

Footscray has an enviable reputation of being one of the most delicious (and cheapest) places to eat in Melbourne, thanks to the waves of immigration that have seen it welcome Italians and Greeks, Vietnamese and most recently an African population. As Vietnamese food is one of my favourite cuisines I decided to join an intimate guided tour of Footscray’s markets with morning tea and lunch for a bargain price of $30. 

Vietnam on a Plate, Discover Footscray Tours

Vietnam on a Plate‘ hold walking tours of Footscray and Springvale and have been run by a husband-and-wife team for 17 years. Over 4+ hours we learned about how to select and use Vietnamese ingredients, got to know some of the stallholders at Footscray Market, ate a lunch of traditional Vietnamese dishes and discovered some great little spots for repeat visits.

Vietnam on a Plate, Discover Footscray Tours

Here are some of my highlights…

Vietnam on a Plate, Discover Footscray Tours

Chooks ‘N’ Googs (Irving St) have been selling in Footscray Market for over 30 years and it’s the place to find free range chickens (sadly most of the market does not sell free range meat) as well as a large array of eggs you’ll never find in a supermarket.

Vietnam on a Plate, Discover Footscray Tours

Footscray Market is also the place for all your lurid lingerie needs. Or sensible cotton undies for the grannies.

The market has the biggest range of gourds and leafy green vegetables I’ve seen outside of Asia. For some reason the proprietor of Bushy Park (our guide’s favourite fruit and veg stall) instructed ‘no photos’ so I don’t have any images of melons for you.

Vietnam on a Plate, Discover Footscray Tours

Thanh Phat (86-88 Hopkins St) is Footscray’s largest Asian supermarket. In amongst its aisles you’ll find such treasures as ‘Police Dog Brand Tea Dust’. Yeah, I have no idea either…

Vietnam on a Plate, Discover Footscray Tours

Among other items our guide recommended Maesri curry paste and fresh chrysanthemum buds for tea.

Vietnam on a Plate, Discover Footscray Tours   Vietnam on a Plate, Discover Footscray Tours

Our multi-dish Vietnamese lunch was at Dong Que (102 Hopkins St, Footscray). Maybe not the best Vietnamese restaurant I’ve been to (I found the flavours a bit bland and the textures a bit rough) but the guide said they are good for groups because they can cater for dietary requirements (with notice), the toilets are clean and you can even hold fundraisers there. For uncertain visitors there’s also a good variety of pictures from which to choose your food. My highlight dish was the fresh and vibrant green papaya salad.

Vietnam on a Plate, Discover Footscray Tours

Nhu Lan (116 Hopkins St) is reknowned for having the best banh mi (pork rolls) in Footscray and possibly Melbourne. Their super-crunchy filled baguettes are an incredible $4 each and every time I’ve been there’s been a mob of people such that I’ve never been able to take a proper photo of the place. Just follow the people on the street clutching white and orange paper bags and they will lead you to the bakery.

Vietnam on a Plate, Discover Footscray Tours

Fresh sugar cane juice! I love this stuff in summer.

Vietnam on a Plate, Discover Footscray Tours

Asian really prize live seafood and Footscray is the only place in Melbourne I’ve seen live eels and live crustaceans for sale. Just like a real Asian wet market and just as creepy.

Vietnam on a Plate, Discover Footscray Tours

Vietnam on a Plate, Discover Footscray Tours

If you’re a little bit more cautious with your fish all the fishmongers in Footscray Market sell their fish on ice, with John and Kevin’s Fresh Fish being the busiest stall from the looks of things.

Vietnam on a Plate, Discover Footscray Tours

Yummie (189/193 Barkly St) sells fresh and frozen Hong Kong style dim sum which are all made on the premises (they also appear to sell Red Bull according to their window, but that’s another story).

Vietnam on a Plate, Discover Footscray Tours

I’ve tried steaming some of their frozen dumplings at home with mixed success (avoid anything with a crystal wrapper, it’s way too thick) but their standout are their flaky egg custard tarts for only $1.50. I dream about these egg tarts, they are so good….Unfortunately they don’t transport too well so eat them fresh!

Vietnam on a Plate, Discover Footscray Tours

I loved the ramshackle Christmas decorations adorning Little Saigon but most importantly, they were selling longan for $5 a kilo! Footscray is the place to stock up on tropical fruit.

As you can imagine I went home with a full stomach, a large shopping bag and a head full of colour, sounds and smells. Discover Footscray tours are a great way to experience Footscray from a new perspective if you’ve never been to Footscray or even if you walk its streets every day. There is so much to explore! Keep a look out on the Maribyrnong City Council for further tour dates. 

HOT: Weasel’s Garden Cafe, 8 Murray St, Abbotsford

Weasel's Garden Cafe, 8 Murray St, Abbotsford

Weasel's Garden Cafe, 8 Murray St, Abbotsford

When I think of Victoria Street, I think of eating cheap and cheerful Vietnamese at restaurants with not much to commend them in terms of setting or ambience (unless you like karaoke music videos or Vietnamese pop shows).

Weasel's Garden Cafe, 8 Murray St, Abbotsford

But just step a few streets away in residential Abbotsford you’ll find Weasel’s Garden Cafe, where you’ll get cheap and cheerful Vietnamese AND a beautiful tranquil garden setting, complete with the resident cat who lent his name to the cafe.

SONY DSC

 

The interior is contemporary and uses beautiful wood and tin building materials such that it feels like someone’s (very cool) home that contains subtle nods to Vietnamese decor. Love the upside down bamboo bird cage planter!

Weasel's Garden Cafe, 8 Murray St, Abbotsford

Weasel’s Garden Cafe is a family run business and the focus is on home-style cooking of the sort that you often see the Vietnamese traders of Victoria Street eating on their lunch breaks. There’s pho, spring rolls, rice paper rolls, some rice dishes and bun (vermicelli salad).

Weasel's Garden Cafe, 8 Murray St, Abbotsford

I order a flame grilled marinated chicken fillet, runny fried egg, rice, salad and curiously, a piece of roast pumpkin ($12.50). It is fresh and filling and the chilli dipping sauce gives a nice kick to the dish. I have heard the pho is very fragrant and light and I’m keen to try to freshly made rice paper rolls.

Weasel's Garden Cafe, 8 Murray St, Abbotsford

There are diversions to more usual Western cafe fare with a few breakfast dishes of the eggs/bacon variety and a choice of sandwiches, baguettes and Turkish melts – but I think you should enjoy the Vietnamese vibe while you can.

Weasel's Garden Cafe, 8 Murray St, Abbotsford

Having said that there are no Vietnamese desserts. Instead try the large slab of chocolate crackle ($3) – a rich rocky road/hedgehog hybrid with puffed rice and cranberries smothered in a heap of milk chocolate.

If you’re after simple Vietnamese food but need some breathing space from the intensity and noise of Victoria Street then I recommend you wander over to Weasel’s Garden Cafe. On a sunny day it’s the perfect place to relax.

Weasel’s Garden Cafe, +

Wednesday – Sunday 8AM – 4PM

Weasels Garden Cafe. on Urbanspoon


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