HOT: The Graham Hotel, 97 Graham Street, Port Melbourne

In the last of Gourmet Chick‘s guest posts series, we take a trip to Port Melbourne to sample some gastropub fare. Gourmet Chick is a Melburnian living in London who writes about food in London and around the world (including Melbourne) at www.gourmet-chick.com. You can also follow her on Twitter . Thanks Gourmet Chick!

When is a gastro pub not a gastro pub? When it is The Graham Hotel in Port Melbourne, which has gone so far down the gastro path that you can’t really call it a pub anymore.

Drinking is still an important part of The Graham experience but it is drinking from The Graham‘s extensive wine list over a long lunch or drinking a cocktail at the wine bar around the back. The main pub area has been entirely converted into a restaurant which is filled with smart white clothed tables where diners can look out the picture windows to watch the street life go by.

There is also a lovely private room which accomodates 28 people and is where I ate on my most recent visit . Helpfully for groups The Graham offers a $59 two course menu which is great value for food of this calibre.

The Graham 97 Graham St Port Melbourne Hot or Not review

The food is modern Australian sporting lots of Asian and Meditteranean influences. To begin, a trio of chilli barbecque prawns ($21.50) which were served on an Asian salad of green paw paw and thai basil. The prawns had a lovely fiery kick to them although mine had been slightly overcooked giving them a slighly acrid charred flavour.

Goats cheese tortelli ($16.50) was a small serving of wide pasta layered over stuffed zucchini flowers and ricotta. This was a really light and fresh pasta dish.

The Graham 97 Graham St Port Melbourne Hot or Not review

Rice crusted snapper ($34.50) was served with a beautifully crisped skin on top of tempura eggplant and prawn fritter. Fresh seafood doesn’t really get better than this and the fritter was the perfect accompaniment.

Throughout our (rather long) lunch the service was fantastic. Two of our friends at the lunch had babies with them and the waitress held their babies for them while they ate. This was a lovely touch that was clearly going above and beyond what is expected and it allowed the babies’ mothers to actually enjoy their meals.

The Graham is run by twins Tony and Peter Giannakis and is a real stalwart of the Melbourne restaurant/gastropub scene. My latest meal there showed why people keep on going back to it.

Here at MEL: HOT OR NOT we also love south-of-the-river gastropubs The Palace by Luke Mangan and O’Connell’s Centenary Hotel.

You can check out the rest of Gourmet Chick‘s guests posts on Sunburnt Country and Naked Japan.

The Graham on Urbanspoon

HOT: NGV Artbus to the Yarra Valley (Part 3) – Healesville Hotel and Heide Museum of Modern Art

Click here for the first stop of the NGV Artbus Tour of the Yarra Valley at Yering Station and the second stop at TarraWarra Estate.

After two wine tastings and a gallery viewing, we were all about ready for lunch.

NGV Artbus to Yarra Valley Healesville Hotel 256 Maroondah Hwy Healesville Melbourne Hot or Not review

NGV Artbus to Yarra Valley Healesville Hotel 256 Maroondah Hwy Healesville Melbourne Hot or Not review

To my delight, the lunch venue was the lovely Healesville Hotel. Not only is this the grand dame of pub dining rooms in the area, but Healesville was one of the towns affected by the tragic Black Saturday bushfires in 2009. With our  lunch I felt like I was doing a little bit to support and rebuild the local community.

NGV Artbus to Yarra Valley Healesville Hotel 256 Maroondah Hwy Healesville Melbourne Hot or Not review

Our meal was medium-cooked steaks with creamy mashed potatoes, a slice of lemon tart with cream and of course another glass of wine. The food was pretty good but not really to my taste if I’d been given a choice. I’m not generally a steak person and RM in particular likes his steak rare so found the meat a bit chewy.

NGV Artbus to Yarra Valley Healesville Hotel 256 Maroondah Hwy Healesville Melbourne Hot or Not review

The lemon tart was beautifully silken but marred slightly by a too-thick crust. However, it’s a bit harsh to judge a venue on mass-produced fare it needs to cook for 30 people at the same time, so don’t let my so-so assessment put you off eating there.

NGV Artbus to Yarra Valley Healesville Hotel 256 Maroondah Hwy Healesville Melbourne Hot or Not review

After a post-lunch stroll on the main street of Healesville, which revealed pretty food and homewares stores, we hopped back on the bus for a snooze on the drive back to Heide Museum of Modern Art.

NGV Artbus to Yarra Valley Heide Museum of Modern Art Melbourne Hot or Not review

Although not strictly in the Yarra Valley, it made sense to visit the gallery as it’s enroute back to Melbourne. The museum is also currently showing ‘Cubism & Australian Art’ until 8 April, the first exhibition of its kind in Australia.

We visited the main gallery in Heide III before moving to Heide II. In Heide III, these works stood out for me:

  • Indigenous artist Gordon Bennett’s self portrait. Against a background of digitised Aboriginal dot paintings, Bennett has taken the African masks that Picasso effectively misappropriated in his first painting Les demoiselles d’Avignon and used them to cover his own face. This symbol makes a political statement about Western culture misappropriating and hiding Aboriginal culture over the centuries and provides an opportunity for him reclaim that culture in his own work.
  • Banner by Rosalie Gascoigne. The artist had taken road signs and floral blue linoleum to evoke the atmosphere of the Australian landscape, with the red slashes of paint on the signs giving an almost violent, ‘Wild West’ aspect to the work.
  • ‘Untitled’ by Jacky Redgate. A cubist still life with flat plans converted back into three dimensions to give a solid form to the empty space between three household items – a glass, a wine bottle and a bowl and saucer – to create a unified whole.
  • ‘The Football Match’ by Roy de Maistre. While the work itself, of footballers playing a game, didn’t really strike me, I was impressed that Patrick White dedicated his first book Happy Valley to de Maistre  and his Figure in a Garden (The Aunt) was used as the cover of White’s The Aunt’s Story.

photo 3

On my way out I strolled around the fabulous gift shop (looove gallery shops) and bought a jar of honey harvested on site by Heide’s bee keeper Vincent Testa ($7.50) – all proceeds go back to the gallery. And then it was time to take our happy and tired selves home.

I thought that the NGV Artbus was a really enjoyable day out for only $75 ($80 for non members). We were ferried all around the Yarra Valley and spent a beautiful sunny day being culturally educated, wine educated and well fed. I really hope that the NGV continues to run the tours on the weekends to other locations so that us nine-to-fivers have the opportunity to travel with them again.

HOT: Grace Darling Hotel, 114 Smith St, Collingwood‎

There was a time when the grungy Grace Darling was the kind of pub which you’d cross the road to avoid. Now the pretty brick and stone building has been given a good clean-up and on a sunny day you’ll find the pub full of youngsters spilling out on the pavement tables and filling up the glamorous inside bar.

Grace Darling Hotel, 114 Smith St, Collingwood‎

So the crowd inside the pub’s atrium dining room was a bit unexpected – it seems to attract an older, quarter-acre block, class of diner. Maybe the youngsters go to the Grace Darling to drink, not to eat, which would be a shame as I think the food is good and the prices are reasonable.

Grace Darling Hotel, 114 Smith St, Collingwood‎

The kitchen is doing some interesting things with a traditional pub menu.  One of their staples is their fancy-pants version of the chicken parmigiana ($18), a terracotta ramekin containing a slow cooked chicken breast layered with prosciutto and parmesan crumbs. Not being much of a parma fan, I much preferred this gourmet version, although it was more of a winter meal and felt quite heavy in my stomach afterwards.

Grace Darling Hotel, 114 Smith St, Collingwood‎

Our other main was the daily special of pork chop with pecans, maple syrup, apple, pear and witloaf salad ($24.50). A gigantic pork chop was served on top of a mound of salad made of what seemed to be a dozen pieces of fruit. The salad was an inspired combination which delivered a contrasting crunch and sweetness to the juicy and tender meat. We really enjoyed this dish and it was definitely more suitable for a summer’s evening meal.

We originally had good intentions for dessert but the huge proportions of the meal left us much too full to contemplate the self-saucing chocolate pudding or hummingbird cake ($9 each). Never mind, we’ll be back to the Grace Darling.

You can also check out the review by The Age here.  Like gastropubs? Try The Court House and The Palace by Luke Mangan.

Grace Darling Hotel on Urbanspoon

HOT: The Palace by Luke Mangan, 505 City Rd, South Melbourne

The Palace by Luke Mangan, 505 City Rd South Melbourne

Since returning to Australia after two years overseas, I’ve developed a hypothesis that Australian food trends lag behind the northern hemisphere (especially the US and UK) by 1-2 years. That means that I’m expecting to see a flurry of gastropub openings in Melbourne in the near future (probably macaron specialists and ramen stalls a year after that), which is fine by me as I’m not much of a drinker or big-screen sports fan, so I’m only attracted to pubs which serve good food.

To mark my point, ex-Melburnian and celebrity chef Luke Mangan has returned to open his new gastropub venture, The Palace, in the middle of nowhere in South Melbourne. Given that the location consists of almost no foot traffic and there’s a big-ass picture of Mr Mangan hoisted up on the side of the building, I expect that initially The Palace will be relying heavily on Luke Mangan‘s fame to bring in the punters. Then I imagine the kitchen’s reputation will overtake the name-dropping, because in my view, the food is very very good.

We stopped briefly to check out the bar area (sleek, shiny, a little bit opulent) before being seated for our meal in the dining room. I never went to The Palace before its renovation, but I was a bit disappointed by the fitout of the dining room. I know a gastropub is not supposed to be a challenging environment but the interior design was so staid and safe (muted colours, bare white walls, corporate-reception floral arrangement) that its dullness actually became noticeable. RM and I agreed that reminded us of the uninspiring and forgettable surrounds of a Qantas Club. The one great thing was that the activity in the kitchen was completely open for viewing, making for some fun entertainment.

The Palace by Luke Mangan, 505 City Rd South Melbourne

To the food. Firstly, let’s get one thing straight – don’t go to a gastropub expecting the food and drink to be at pub prices. The menu at The Palace has starters around $15-$18, mains at $30-35 (with three ‘to share’ dishes of barramundi, roast chicken or chateaubriand) and desserts at $14. For me, that’s ok as the menu moves beyond the bangers-and-mash and fish-and-chips standards to more innovative dishes, while still catering for the pub meal traditionalists in its grill menu of meat, meat, and more meat served with veg.

To start, big juicy oven baked prawns served with a slightly spicy mango salsa and roquette salad ($18). RM loved this dish, a perfect summer marriage of lightness and kick with bright, fresh flavours.

The Palace by Luke Mangan, 505 City Rd South Melbourne

My starter was a crab omelette in a miso mustard broth $18). I couldn’t taste much of the miso or mustard in the broth, but no matter, as the omelette was a stand out, a mix between the mint and coriander flavours of a banh xeo and a melting Cantonese oyster omelette filled with large pieces of crab meat. The topping of fried shallots and sesame seed sprinkle gave the eggy fluffiness a nice contrasting crunch.

The Palace by Luke Mangan, 505 City Rd South Melbourne

The barramundi with chorizo, fennel salad and spiced eggplant ($32) was a punchy dish of Spanish/Middle Eastern flavours. It was very good for RM, but not as much of a highlight as the prawns.

The Palace by Luke Mangan, 505 City Rd South Melbourne

My main was a generous portion of pan-fried gnocchi with white asparagus and cauliflower polonaise (a sort of crunchy topping) with truffle oil. I normally avoid gnocchi because you never know whether you’re going to end up with a wad of potato glued to the roof of your mouth, but The Palace ‘s version was one of the best examples of  gnocchi I’ve ever had. Not floury, not sticky and slightly glutinous pellets of potato paired with light spring flavours. 

The Palace by Luke Mangan, 505 City Rd South Melbourne

As I mentioned before, a large focus in the choices of main dishes is meat from the grill. The diners at the next table informed us that it was one of the best steak meals they’d ever had. High praise indeed when you feel compelled to praise your dinner to strangers!

For us, the grand finale was the chocolate fondant with cookies and cream icecream ($14). There’s no picture because as soon as RM dipped his spoon into the centre, a lava of molten chocolate came gushing out. He yelled “Hurry! Hurry! Take the photo!” but in my haste to capture the moment everything came out blurry. So you’ll just have to believe RM when he declared it the best dessert he’s ever had in Melbourne. This from a man who doesn’t generally descend into superlatives when describing food.

Finally, my admiration goes to the smooth kitchen and floor service on only the second day of public opening. No hiccups, no mix-ups, no panicking. Both the food and the service were poised, confident and consummately professional. The Palace should do very well.

For other gastropub recommendations, try The Court House, O’Connell’s Centenary Hotel and The Carringbush.

Palace Hotel on Urbanspoon

HOT: O’Connell’s Centenary Hotel, 407 Coventry Street, South Melbourne

O'Connells Coventry Street South Melbourne

After a brief wander through the South Melbourne Night Markets, C and I found ourselves in a South Melbourne black hole. Both of us were familiar with daytime cafes in the area, but where to go for dinner?

Fortunately, we remembered the gastropub O’Connell’s. This beautifully restored pub is in a quiet residential area of South Melbourne and at 6:30pm on a Thursday night most people were lounging at the leafy pavement tables enjoying a drink and the sunshine. C and I were the first people to settle into the surprisingly starched dining room adjoining the bar, but it didn’t feel silent or stuffy.

O’Connell’s menu ranges from sturdy pub grub to more fine dining options. C and I went somewhere in the middle – chicken and pumpkin sausages with lentils and mashed potato ($26.50), and a large salad of calamari, fennel, watercress and blood orange segments ($28).

My tender calamari had a big kick of spice offset by the crisp salad ingredients. C’s  sausages were almost crumbly in texture, with the pumpkin keeping the whole mix together and lending an unexpected sweetness to the hearty dish. Both of the dishes were generously proportioned and although we were tempted by the dessert menu old classic favourites (chocolate fondant, sticky date pudding, crumble) we couldn’t fit another thing into our satisfied stomachs.

O'Connells Coventry Street South Melbourne

O'Connell's on Urbanspoon

HOT: Carringbush Hotel, 288 Langridge St, Abbotsford

My friend J was once part of a radio station competition where the audience had to call in to guess her nationality based on what she said and how she spoke. J spent 5 minutes discussing how confused she was by the popularity of chicken parma. She couldn’t understand why you’d take a perfectly good piece of chicken breast, bash it with a mallet, crumb it, fry it, coat it with canned tomatoes/tomato paste and then grill it some more with cheese on top? (In case you’re wondering, J is Vietnamese).

carringbush hotel 288 langridge st abbotsford pub

I have to say I’m inclined to agree with her and even the sight of chicken parma makes me nauseous. So I can’t really comment about the quality of the chicken parma at the Carringbush Hotel ($17), as the non-food obsessed RM generally rates food according to ‘bad’, ‘ok’, ‘good’, ‘pretty good’ and ‘very good’.  The Carringbush received a ‘pretty good’ so I guess that makes it 4 out of 5 stars.

carringbush hotel 228 langridge st abbotsford pub

Similarly, my beer battered fish ($17) with chips and a big heap of salad was about a 3 out of 5 – not amazing, not terrible. I guess that’s what the bar food at the Carringbush is all about –  good standard pub fare done well enough to enjoy over a beer in the tucked-away courtyard or in the cool dim front bar. If I lived in the area I think it would make a really nice, relaxing local, but it’s not so amazing that I’d be hurrying back especially.

You may be interested to know that the Carringbush Hotel has a higher-end gastro-pub menu in its award winning dining room, and in 2008 it was crowned as 3AW as the Pub of the Year due to its ‘lovely old world horse-shoe shaped bar with the best draught beer in Melbourne.’

If you’re looking for another old-school boozer with great food, check out The Court House Hotel, North Melbourne.

Carringbush Dining Room on Urbanspoon

HOT: The Court House Hotel, ‎ 86-90 Errol St, North Melbourne

The Court House Hotel 44 Errol Street North Melbourne

Every year for the past 30 or so years, a group of men have met up at The Court House on the eve of the grand final. They don’t have much to do with each other the rest of the year, but their annual catch up has been sacred through toddlers, mortgages, receding hairlines and retirement.

The Court House is that kind of place – a cosy, convivial local boozer where the friendly barmen chat to you as they pour your pint, the sort of pub where everyone knows your name. In addition, they serve wholesome, no-frills pub grub in the flocked-carpet bar and a Mod-Oz menu in the more austere and elegant dining room.

On the barman’s recommendations, we opted for bangers and mash ($19) and a steak pie ($19). They were simple, hearty meals – the pork sausages were cooked to perfection, juicy and bursting with flavour, while the flaky pie pastry was obviously house-made with loads of butter. There were a lot of other tempting items on the menu and RM and I loved the atmosphere of the buzzing pub, so we’ll definitely be back.

Court House Hotel on Urbanspoon