Threefold is a casual cafe/bar tucked into a narrow corner space on Flinders Lane and Tavistock Place. You’ll recognise it by the planter boxes laden with fresh herbs at its entrance – a happy  contrast to the soulless vistas offered by its office block neighbours.

It’s a smart establishment that seats mostly business people along narrow benches and small tables which all face the long marble bench stacked with colourful, fresh dishes served in big white bowls and platters.

For lunch the choices range from terrines to tarts to imaginative salads (not an iceberg lettuce leaf to be seen). On my visit I tried the pork belly with a choice of two spring salads ($18.50). Sadly the pork belly did not live up to its good looks – the meat did not fall from my fork as expected, requiring a bit of sawing to get through, and the crackling didn’t crackle and got left behind.

R fared better with pastrami and melted gruyere sandwiched on thick-cut rye with a zingy side salad of apple, radish and shaved cabbage ($13.50). A gourmet twist to the toasted ham and cheese sanga.

I finished off the meal with a small slice of marble cake ($6.50) while R received a very pretty latte made using organic beans from Espresso Syndicate.

Finally, a word on their service. When I wanted to eat at Threefold with a friend with a baby in tow, the staff said ‘no problems’. They reserved a table for us at the front near the door with the most room, helped shuffle chairs and tables around and were very accommodating in the face of a slightly troublesome crowd of pram, shopping trolley, dropped cutlery and dirty bibs.

Threefold is a welcome gourmet addition to the slightly dull, business end of town. I liked the look of the dinner specials up on the blackboard and they open late for after-work drinks on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays. Much better than getting greasy takeaway on your way home.

Threefold, 381 Flinders Lane, Melbourne +61 3 9614 8194
Mon – Tue:7:00 am-4:00 pm
Wed – Fri:7:00 am-11:00 pm

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